How To Install Interior Pvc Trim?
There are several reasons why free foam cellular PVC (polyvinyl chloride) has become the material of choice for decking, trim, siding, and cladding. Durability, availability, and adaptability are frequently highlighted as major factors in today’s demanding building environment.
- However, transformation is not always simple.
- Even if the alternative is generally recognized and has been proved for decades, such as PVC, contractors who are accustomed to working with a certain material may be reluctant to transfer.
- Ask Garrett Davis, the owner and operator of G.W.
- Davis Company in central Maine, a bespoke homebuilder and remodeler.
Davis was once a woodsman, but his perspective has changed in recent years. “I enjoy wood. In reality, my business was first known as G.W. Woodworking for several years “Davis adds. Wood is still a significant part of Davis’s life, but PVC is the material he specifies first in bids since it has reduced callbacks in his house construction, renovation, and decking projects.
What has Davis’ extensive field experience taught him about PVC trim and siding? He provides five teachings: 1. Fasten it correctly. Davis says, “Use Cortex fastening screws.” “Cortex plugs are not noticeable if placement is uniform and not random. Depending on the size of the board, insert screws every 12 inches and align them vertically.
I install two screws, one inch apart from the bottom and the top. Three screws are required for larger boards. Cortex eliminates mobility.” 2. Fasten frequently. “Each and every nail supporting PVC siding is driven into a stud, just as my entire trim is.
I have strong connections everywhere. I utilize an abundance of fasteners and glue. If you believe you are doing enough, it is likely that you are not. You should do more, “Davis suggests. The payoff? No change from season to season, not even in Maine (where you have big temp changes). Attach towards the edges.
Wood and cement board that is affixed close to the edge might splinter or split. Free foam PVC foam is distinct. Davis suggests fastening PVC around the borders to minimize buckling and warping. Keep your cool. Keep PVC siding, trim, molding, and other PVC items kept out of direct sunlight.
Eep in a garage or beneath a tarp for wood. Cool PVC installs truer. Davis is familiar with the movement of all materials, whether wood, fiber cement, or PVC. “PVC is maintenance-free if properly placed. This is the elegance of it. Simply adhere to the manufacturer’s instructions “Davis says. “There is no expansion and contraction caused by the absorption of water.
PVC eliminates the sealing, painting, repainting, and maintenance issues generally associated with wood. Simply attach securely.” 5. Butt joints and glue. “Utilize butt joints as frequently as possible, with biscuits and copious amounts of PVC adhesive.
Red Hot Blue Glue by Christie’s is an excellent product “contractor claims. For longer runs of skirt boards, fascia, or frieze, manufacturers propose scarf joints that are adhered on both sides towards the edge. Davis offers one more piece of advise, which he believes contractors frequently misunderstand.
Davis continues, “I’ve heard all the reasons for and against PVC.” “Many individuals assert that wood is less expensive. In my experience, this is not the case. I dislike having to worry about water leaking into end grains and determining how much paint to use.
Do I require a biscuit? How can I keep this joint in place? With PVC, water concerns and callbacks are eliminated. Additionally, it is simple to install. If you are accustomed to wood, you will enjoy PVC.” As evidence, Davis cites to his own residence. He relied only on PVC trim, molding, and siding from AZEK, his preferred PVC construction material supplier.
“I desire the appearance of wood without the maintenance,” he explains. “It’s a matter of set-and-forget. No repainting allowed. No color loss. There is no peeling, warping, rotting, or need for a rain screen.” Davis prefers AZEK PVC siding, trim, molding, cladding, and decking materials. 
How is PVC trim attached to a wall?
4. Attaching PVC Trim Boards – Stainless steel screws are the finest choice for fasteners since they will never corrode and will prevent the board from bleeding if the PVC board is unpainted. For external trim, stainless steel screws with tiny finish heads are the ideal option.
- You may also use galvanized hot-dipped nails, but these may eventually corrode and discolor the PVC trim.
- We recommend utilizing 8d nails, which are often used for 12 gauge or stronger timber trim.
- Thin shanks, completely rounded heads, and blunt tips should characterize these nails.
- For a firmer grip, these planks should be secured at least 2 inches from their ends.
PVC trim boards tend to expand and contract in response to variations in temperature, therefore they must be securely fastened. Never drive screws or nails directly into the sheathing. For optimal control of board motions, the following board widths are recommended:
| Board Width | Fasteners per Width With a maximum of every 16″ on center |
| 4″ & 6″ | 2 |
| 8″ & 10″ | 3 |
| 12″ | 3-4 |
| 16″ | 4-5 |
Cement the Joints – One of the benefits of PVC is the ability to “weld” the joints to keep them tight and prevent water from seeping behind the trim. Manufacturers suggest a particular type of PVC cement with a longer “open time” than the cement used on plastic pipes.
Can trim be glued instead than nailed?
You may glue baseboards rather than nail them. Depending on the specifics of the undertaking, it may even be a better idea than the usual hammer and nails. Whether or whether it’s the ideal choice depends on what you’re attempting to do and how you’d like it accomplished. Occasionally, both nails and adhesives are employed.